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Some foods in Lisbon you plan to try â others just keep appearing until they become part of your routine. For me, Pastel de bacalhau falls firmly into the second category. What started as a quick snack between exploring neighborhoods turned into a bit of an obsession with finding the best ones in the city.
Over time, Iâve tried them everywhere â from traditional tascas to more modern spots putting their own spin on this classic. Along the way, Iâve picked up plenty of recommendations from locals who take their bacalhau seriously, and Iâve learned that not all pastĂ©is are created equal.
In this guide, Iâm sharing seven places where the pastel de bacalhau really stands out â based on repeated visits, honest comparisons, and a lot of very enjoyable âresearch.â
The Pastel de Bacalhau
If youâve ever wandered the streets of Lisbon and caught a whiff of something golden and crispy frying in olive oil, chances are it was the iconic pastel de bacalhau â Portugalâs most beloved codfish snack. These crunchy, soft-centered fritters are more than just food; theyâre a bite-sized piece of Portuguese tradition, and tasting them is like stepping into the heart of Lisbonâs culinary soul.
Before we dive into where to find the best ones, letâs uncover a bit of the history behind this timeless Portuguese favorite.
A Brief History of the Pastel de Bacalhau
The pastel de bacalhau (also called bolinho de bacalhau in northern Portugal) has been a staple in Portuguese homes for centuries. Its story is intertwined with the nationâs centuries-long love affair with bacalhau (salted codfish).
Origins: Cod was preserved in salt and shipped from the North Atlantic to Portugal, becoming a kitchen essential.
Ingredients: Traditional pastéis mix shredded cod, mashed potato, onion, parsley, and egg. Some variations add nutmeg or a hint of garlic.
19th Century Cookbook Appearance: Early recipes document how home cooks and professional chefs alike celebrated cod fritters.
Modern Twists: Gourmet versions now include fillings like Serra da Estrela cheese, truffle, or aioli.
Today, these fritters are everywhere â from simple neighborhood tascas (small cafĂ©s) to high-end culinary establishments â and tasting them is a must on any Lisbon itinerary.
đ 7 Places to Try the Best Pastel de Bacalhau in Lisbon
1. Casa Portuguesa do Pastel de Bacalhau â Tradition Meets Indulgence
On Rua Augusta, Casa Portuguesa do Pastel de Bacalhau is a shrine to cod. Their famous cheese-filled pastéis de bacalhau ooze melty Serra da Estrela cheese, creating a combination of crispy exterior and rich, creamy interior.
Why itâs special:
Signature cheese core for a unique flavor twist.
Iconic Lisbon location â a perfect stop during a city stroll.
Friendly staff who often share stories about the history of their recipe.
Pro Tip: Pair with a chilled Vinho Verde to balance the richness.
2. A Licorista O Bacalhoeiro â Old-School Authenticity
Hidden on Rua dos Sapateiros, this family-run tasca feels like a step back in time. Their traditional pastéis de bacalhau are seasoned with care, fried to golden perfection, and loved by locals who swear by this neighborhood gem.
Highlights:
Quiet, authentic atmosphere away from heavy tourist traffic.
Perfect for experiencing Lisbon like a local.
Offers small bites and affordable portions.
Tip: Grab a coffee or a small beer alongside your fritters for the full Lisbon tasca experience.
3. O Beco in Alfama â A Hidden Gem in the Old Quarter
In Alfama, one of Lisbonâs oldest districts, O Beco serves pastĂ©is that are almost homemade perfection. The balance of cod, potato, and seasoning is delicate yet satisfying. Walking through Alfamaâs cobbled alleys, the smell of frying cod is irresistible.
Why go:
Friendly, small-scale environment with personalized service.
Less crowded than tourist-heavy areas.
A real local experience with historic surroundings.
4. A Casa do Bacalhau â A Shrine to All Things Cod
If your love for bacalhau runs deep, A Casa do Bacalhau in Beato is a must. Beyond the restaurantâs extensive cod menu, their pastĂ©is de bacalhau are crispy, flavorful, and perfectly seasoned.
Insider tips:
Ideal for lunch or early dinner.
Away from the tourist crowds, so expect authentic flavors.
Try other cod dishes afterward â the bacalhau Ă BrĂĄs is legendary.
5. DâBacalhau at Parque das NaçÔes â Modern Setting, Classic Flavor
Overlooking the Tagus River, DâBacalhau blends Lisbonâs modern vibe with traditional flavors. Their pastĂ©is de bacalhau are light, perfectly fried, and a delicious prelude to their cod-focused menu.
Why itâs worth visiting:
Stunning riverside views.
Options for both traditional and innovative cod dishes.
Close to family-friendly attractions like OceanĂĄrio de Lisboa.
6. Time Out Market Lisboa â A Foodie Wonderland
Time Out Market is Lisbonâs ultimate foodie hub. Here you can sample pastĂ©is de bacalhau alongside gourmet interpretations from top chefs. Itâs an ideal stop for travelers wanting variety in one location.
Highlights:
Multiple stalls, each with its own version of the cod fritter.
Perfect for tasting and comparing styles.
Great for pairing with wine, craft beer, or local soft drinks.
7. CafĂ© Lisboa by JosĂ© Avillez â Gourmet Twist
For the ultimate culinary indulgence, visit Café Lisboa by celebrated chef José Avillez. His Pastel Lisboa elevates the humble fritter to fine dining, with a delicate, crisp exterior and creamy cod filling.
Why go:
Sophisticated twist on a traditional snack.
Central Chiado location â easy to combine with cultural sightseeing.
Pair with a glass of white port for a luxurious experience.
đ Discover more Chiado treasures by booking a Lisbon cultural & food experience on GetYourGuide.
Tips for the Ultimate Pastel de Bacalhau Experience
Eat them fresh and hot â cold fritters lose their magic.
Try both traditional and cheese-filled versions to see which you love.
Pair with Vinho Verde, white port, or light beer.
Donât be afraid to explore side streets and local tascas â hidden gems often lie off the beaten path.
Consider combining your food adventures with guided tours for context and local stories.
Quick Highlights:
Street snack or gourmet delight â pastĂ©is de bacalhau can do both.
A snack for any time of day: breakfast, lunch, or late-night bites.
Lisbon is full of history, so each bite comes with a story.
Final Thoughts
Lisbonâs pastel de bacalhau is more than a snack â itâs a journey through Portuguese culture, flavor, and history. From traditional tascas tucked in Alfama alleys to gourmet interpretations by world-class chefs, every bite tells a story.
Whether youâre a first-time visitor or a seasoned traveler, hunting for the best pastĂ©is de bacalhau should be on your culinary bucket list. Pair your bites with wine, explore the neighborhoods, and soak in the charm of Lisbon streets.
For me, the beauty of pastel de bacalhau is its simplicity â crispy on the outside, soft on the inside, and always satisfying.
If youâre exploring Lisbon, itâs one of those small, essential food experiences you shouldnât skip. And with the right spot, itâs the kind of snack that quickly turns into a favorite ritual. đ
đ Donât forget to book your stay with Agoda and plan your food adventures with Viator and GetYourGuide to make the most of your trip â Lisbon is waiting, and the pastĂ©is are hot!
About the author
Iâm Duncan, a Lisbon-based guide and writer whoâs lived here for 11 years and taken hundreds of visitors around the city. I created Lisbon Listicles to share everything you need to know about Lisbon in clear, practical lists â from iconic sights to hidden gems â so you can plan your trip easily and make the most of your time here.
All recommendations are based on personal experience and the questions I hear most often from visitors.
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